Marseille, France’s oldest city and second-largest metropolis, sits beautifully on the Mediterranean coast with over 300 days of sunshine. Founded by Greek sailors in 600 BC as Massalia, this cosmopolitan port city offers a rebellious charm unlike anywhere else in France.
From the regenerated old harbor to multicultural neighborhoods, Marseille blends maritime heritage with North African influences, creating the perfect laid-back city break destination along the Côte d’Azur.
Vieux Port (Old Port)
The Vieux Port truly is the beating heart of Marseille, and I found myself drawn back here every single day.
Early mornings bring the daily fish market near Norman Foster’s striking mirrored canopy, where local fishermen sell their fresh catch. By afternoon, the waterfront transforms with terrace cafes filling up, locals playing pétanque, and the whole harbor buzzing with life.
Come evening, street performers appear as the illuminated city creates pure magic reflected in the water.
Le Panier
Le Panier swept me off my feet completely. This neighborhood, built where Greeks first settled in 600 BC, feels like a village frozen in time.
I spent hours getting wonderfully lost in winding cobblestone streets lined with pastel-colored shutters and vibrant street art. The centerpiece is La Vieille Charité, an 18th-century hospice now housing archeology and contemporary art museums.
Grab lunch at Hododa’s charming terrace, then wander the narrow alleyways discovering artisan shops tucked into every corner.
Notre-Dame de la Garde
“La Bonne Mère” watches over Marseille from her hilltop perch, crowned by a ten-tonne golden Virgin Mary statue visible across the city. The Roman-Byzantine basilica is absolutely stunning inside with red and white marble paired with sparkling gold mosaics.
The 360-degree panoramic views alone are worth the visit. Skip the steep 30-minute uphill slog and catch the number 60 bus instead.
Visit early (before 11am) to beat the cruise ship crowds, and if you’re here in December, the traditional nativity scenes with moving Santons de Provence figurines are magical.
MUCEM
The Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilizations genuinely transformed Marseille when it opened in 2013. This striking black concrete cube wrapped in lace-like patterns inspired by Arab sunshades is architectural brilliance.
Inside, exhibitions exploring Mediterranean culture spread across multiple floors, though I’ll warn you, the maze-like layout can be confusing! The rooftop terrace offers stunning views, and the public spaces by the water where locals swim and sunbathe are perfect for lingering.
Entry costs €9.50, but visit on the first Sunday of any month for free admission.
Cathédrale de la Major
La Major absolutely dominates the harbor front with its Byzantine-Romanesque grandeur. Built in the 19th century when Marseille was flourishing through maritime trade, this cathedral was designed to impress ships arriving from sea, and boy, does it succeed!
The striped exterior and marble columns are breathtaking, while ornate mosaics fill the surprisingly sober interior. Entrance is completely free, making it perfect for a quick cultural stop.
If you’re visiting mid-August, the procession celebrating the Virgin Mary through Le Panier is a spectacular local tradition.
Château d’If
Every Count of Monte Cristo fan needs to visit this famous island prison where Alexandre Dumas set Edmond Dantes’ dramatic escape. The twenty-minute boat ride from Quai de la Fraternité costs €10.80 round trip, with boats departing hourly.
The fortress itself (€6 entrance) imprisoned royal enemies from 1580 to 1871, and the rocky outpost offers brilliant panoramic views back to Marseille.
Fair warning: if it’s particularly windy, boats won’t venture out, so check weather conditions. You can combine with Frioul island for €16.20 total.
Calanques National Park
The Parc National des Calanques showcases 26 stunning Mediterranean inlets with crystal-clear turquoise water framed by steep limestone cliffs. I hiked from Cassis to three calanques (Port Miou, Port Pin, and Port d’en Vau) taking about four hours round trip.
That final stretch to Port d’en Vau is genuinely challenging with slippery stones and a steep cliff descent, but absolutely worth it for the hidden beach.
What to bring:
- Water shoes
- Plenty of drinking water
How to get there: Take Metro Line 1 to Castellane, then bus L078 (€3.50) to Cassis. Alternatively, book boat tours from Marseille.
Street Art in Cours Julien
Cours Julien in the 6th arrondissement absolutely blew my mind. Every single wall and shopfront is covered in incredibly high-quality street art. This creative neighborhood pulses with cool bars, innovative restaurants, and weekly street markets.
I stumbled upon locals playing boules at Boulodrome Carli, browsed vintage clothing shops, and discovered fantastic eateries posting daily menus on chalkboards at Place de Notre Dame du Mont.
Don’t miss walking down Les Escaliers staircase to the Notre Dame du Mont metro bridge and turn around for a brilliant surprise view!
Fort Saint-Jean
This imposing 17th-century fortress built by Louis XIV guards Marseille’s harbor entrance with serious style. The complex includes a chapel, church, old hospital, and palace, all free to explore outdoors.
I absolutely loved the panoramic views from the fortress walls, and those old ramparts along Promenade Louis Brauquier make perfect spots for sitting with water views.
Two dramatic pedestrian bridges connect Fort Saint-Jean to both MUCEM and Le Panier district. Only pay if you want exhibitions inside; otherwise, roaming the outdoor areas costs nothing.
Where to Eat in Marseille
Marseille’s food scene is brilliant, from authentic bouillabaisse at Chez Fonfon in Vallon des Auffes (the real deal!) to budget-friendly Bouillabaisse Turfu near the old port.
For vegetarians, Hododa’s terrace, My Little Warung, and Mariposas offer excellent options. Pizza lovers must try Chez Sauveur’s charcoal-fired half-and-half pizzas or queue at La Bonne Mère.
Stick to Quai de Rive Neuve’s side of the old port. Restaurants on Cours Jean Ballard and Rue Saint-Saëns are much more affordable and atmospheric than the touristy Quai du Port.
Getting Around Marseille
Marseille’s walkable city center makes exploring easy, though the two metro lines (M1 blue and M2 red) connect key spots quickly. Single tickets cost €1.70 with unlimited transfers for one hour, or €2.00 if bought on buses.
The airport shuttle bus (€10) departs every 10 minutes to Gare Saint-Charles station.
I found the Marseille City Pass brilliant value:
- Unlimited public transport
- Museum entries
- Tourist train access
- Boat to Château d’If
The Le Vélo bicycle scheme (€1 weekly, first 30 minutes free) works perfectly for exploring neighborhoods.
